Top Spots to Stop on and around Jl. Veteran I

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Please join us for a BIG DAY OUT in Central Jakarta! beginning with coffee (of course!) on the site of the headquarters of the Indonesian Post Office Jakarta, and the Jakarta Philatelic Office, lunch and ice-cream on what was once one of Jakarta’s most fashionable streets in the Colonial Era, and finally a visit to Jakarta’s first and oldest bakery.

Ayo! Let’s Go!

Jalan Lapangan Banteng Utara

Filateli Coffee

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Filateli Coffee on the grounds of POS Indonesia, the company responsible for providing postal services in Indonesia

It is all about coffee and postage stamps at our first stop!
Filateli Coffee is located on the extensive grounds of The Indonesian Postal Company PT POS Indonesia. Inside this quaint cafe, owner Fia (who works next door in the post office in a PR Role) aims to provide a simple space for visitors and post office staff to enjoy good local coffee, and to highlight the location and work of Kantor Filateli Jakarta or Jakarta Philatelic Office; an historic institution on the same grounds as Filateli cafe, dedicated to Philately (the study of postage stamps)

The Jakarta Philately Office (JPO) produce and sell 8-10 stamp collections per year, each with a different theme. Regular stamps still receive a lot of customers, especially from collectors and hobbyists. Additionally, the JPO create custom stamps for weddings and special events to keep Philately alive in Jakarta.

Jl. Lapangan Banteng Utara No. 1
Jakarta Pusat / Central Jakarta

Opening hours: Monday – Friday 6.30am – 9pm, Saturday 7am – 2 pm

InstagramFilateli Coffee

We drank: The Filateli Coffee cappuccino

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Our Filateli coffee of choice … the perfect strength cappuccino made from Aceh Gayo and Toraja coffee beans
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Wall art inside Filateli Cafe depicting the work of The Jakarta Philately Office in the building next door
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More wall art dedicated to the history of the postage stamp
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Filateli staff : Waitress Stefania, Barista Gilang and Waitress Farisa
Caffeinated and ready to explore 😉 Our next stop Jalan Veteran I is less than 10 minutes from here.

Jalan Veteran I

Once one of Old Batavia’s most fashionable streets

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On your left as you approach Jalan Veteran I you will see The Supreme Court of Indonesia (Mahkamah Agung)
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You’ve now arrived on Jalan Veteran I. It is a narrow, one way street, located just off Jakarta’s central Merdeka square and the National Monument Jakarta (MONAS). Keep driving down the street, our first stop is on the left.
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The view of Masjid Istiqlal from Jalan Veteran I
An electric commuter train runs above the road and can be seen from Jalan Veteran I

Dapur Babah Elite Tao Bar & Lounge

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Dapur Babah Elite Tao Bar & Lounge facade

Our first stop on Jalan Veteran I is Dapur Babah Elite Tao Bar & Lounge for lunch. This restaurant is located inside an historic pair of refurbished 1940’s shop houses and its signature peranakan cuisine has its roots in Javanese spices, the rich flavours of the Netherlands, and Chinese sweet and spicy seasoning.

The day we visited we were taken on a tour of the restaurant (made up of six separate and unique dining spaces) by Waiter and Barman Pak Yupi. Pak Yupi has been with this business for 14 years and shared these insights:

Pak Yupi said the concept of the restaurant is ‘the blend of Chinese, Javanese and Dutch cultures’. Historically, ‘Babah’ was a term used in Jakarta Colonial times to describe the fusion of East and the West; in particular the marriages of Dutch-Javanese women with Chinese settlers. Babah also refers to the respectful and endearing term for father in the Chinese culture and the head of this restaurant.

Once inside you will encounter a menagerie of brightly coloured rooms and period mementoes and paraphernalia, such as reclaimed teak furniture and rustic housewares.

Jl. Veteran I, No 18/19
Jakarta Pusat

Web: Dapur Babah Elite

InstagramDapur Babah Elite

To arrange a Nyonya Cooking Class: 0851 0060 2256

We ate: Fern vegetables stir fried in shallots and skipjack tuna and fried tofu served with a smooth and slightly sweet black shrimp paste.

We drank: Mahadeva Garudsana – a mocktail consisting of fresh strawberries, lime, Tugu tea, muscovado sugar, fresh mint and sweet & sour mix.

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Once inside the restaurant you will be transported back to early 20th Century Java. Period mementoes and paraphernalia and artefacts embellish every room.
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Each room in the restaurant is designed to tell a specific story using the antique items the owner has acquired over the years
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The Tao bar inspired by the Maha Safira Mahavir religion
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We enjoyed Fern vegetables stir fried in shallots and skipjack tuna, and fried tofu served with a smooth and slightly sweet black shrimp paste
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Jo and Liz in the Garden Area, a semi-covered terrace called ‘Babah Garden’ established for Babah Peranakan Cuisine cooking classes.
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Babah Garden kitchen is inspired by the kitchen of the Babah Oei family, with the statue of the God of the Kitchen overlooking the space, as well as a collection of century-old kitchen utensils.
Babah’s Garden accommodates up to 40 people in the evening. At night, this beautiful space is lit by giant Chinese lanterns

Let’s take a walk along Jalan Veteran I … ‘Jalan Jalan’

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Enjoy the aroma of barbecued sate cooking as you stroll along Jalan Veteran I
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Along with Otak-Otak … Otak-otak is a grilled fish cake made of ground fish meat mixed with tapioca starch and spices and cooked on a char grill
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On the canal side of the road you will meet more street food sellers. Ketoprak is a vegetarian dish originating in Jakarta consisting of tofu, vegetables, rice cakes, rice vermicelli and served in peanut sauce

Ragusa Italian Icecream

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Ragusa Es Italia was established by brothers Luigi and Vincenzo Ragusa who immigrated to Jakarta from Italy in the 1930’s. The two brothers developed a friendship with a Europan lady who lived in Bandung, West Java. It happened that the lady was the owner of a dairy farm which was producing a surplus of milk. Not knowing what to do with it, she gave the milk to the brothers who turned it into Italian-style gelato. The product was so well received that the brothers realised a profitable business was achievable. 

In order to get the business up and running, Luigi and Vincenzo recruited the help of their other siblings and soon after, the first Ragusa Es Italia was established in downtown Bandung.

In 1947 a second store in Central Jakarta was opened at the current site – Jl Veteran I. In the 1970’s, the Ragusa brothers returned to Italy leaving Ragusa Es Italia in the hands of family friends.

At the height of its success, Ragusa had 20 ice-cream shops in Jakarta, however after the riots of 1998, many of these shops were damaged and closed their doors permanently.

Jl. Veteran I, No. 10
Jakarta Pusat

InstagramRagusa Es Krim Italia

We ate: Cassata Siciliana and Coupe de Maison

The Ragusa brothers
Inside Ragusa Es Italia
Liz placing our order with Ibu Lia who has worked at Ragusa for more than 20 years (In case you’re wondering, Ibu Lia’s favourite flavour is Tuti Frutti)
Our order – Coupe de Maison (top) and Cassata Siciliana. Both were delicious but I think we preferred the Cassata 🙂

Jalan Jalan continued …

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A well maintained footpath makes strolling along Jalan Veteran I easy and comfortable. The yellow strip down the centre of the footpath is tactile paving to aid sight impaired people.
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A view from the shady canal side of the street
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Mas Indra Mariu has been frying ‘gorengan’ for more than 4 years at this site on Jl. Veteran I. Originally from Cirebon, he enjoys eating all of his fried treats but particularly ‘tahu kosong’
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Behind this flower covered fence is the Sriwijaya Hotel, The oldest surviving Hotel in Jakarta – est.1863.
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We have now reached the far end of Jalan Veteran I where it meets Jalan Veteran. In the Colonial Era it was known as Jalan Rijswijk and Jalan Citadelweg (now Jalan Veteran and Jalan Veteran I). 
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This sign is located at the end of Jalan Veteran I and shows the proximity and directions to Istiqlal Mosque, Katolic Cathedral, Passar Baroe, Baneng Park, Djuanda Station, Gambir Station and the National Monument (MONAS) all very close to this spot.
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View from the bridge over canal SODETAN KALI CILIWANG at Jalan Veteran I, looking towards Masjid Istiqlal. This canal flows from the Manggarai floodgate to the Jl.Juanda floodgate. After that it is divided into two channels to Jl Hayam/ Wuruk city, to Jl Sahari mountain and then straight to the sea


Our last stop … Maison Weiner Bakery, the first and oldest bakery in Jakarta. Maison Weiner Bakery is approximately 10 minutes by car from Jalan Veteran I and in the direction of South Jakarta.

Jalan Kramet II

Maison Weiner Bakery

Masion Weiner is the first and oldest bakery in Jakarta.

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Maison Weiner Bakery facade

Tucked away along the small street of Jl. Kramat II in Kwitang, Central Jakarta, Maison Weiner has a unique historical relevance in Jakarta: In 1936, it became the first bakery to open its doors in the capital, nine years before Indonesia gained independence. 

Maison Weiner was founded by Lee Liang Mey, who was of Chinese ancestry. Lee Liang May previously worked for a Dutch baker who taught her to bake and encouraged her to set up her own bakery.   

Maison Weiner was previously known as Bengkel Koewe Weiner and is now under the care of Pak Heru Laksana of the third generation from the direct line of Mrs Lee Liang Mey.

The bakery continues to operate 6 days a week and sells a small number of local cakes, but is best known for its typical European breads cakes and pastries.

Pak Heru runs short courses at Maison Weiner on how to make European breads, cakes and pastries, from baguettes to ciabatta and to sachertorte, to the famous Viennese chocolate cake.  

Be sure not miss the Maison Weiner Dreikorn Brot (seed bread) and the  Saucijzenbroodje commonly known as saucijs brood. (or for me, saucijs brood is a sausage roll)

Jl. Kramet II, No. 2
Kwitang, Senen
Jakarta Pusat

Opening hours:
Mon – Sat, 7am – 7pm

Instagram: Maison Weiner Cake Shop

For Pak Heru’s baking classes you can contact him on Instagram or on the Bakery WhatsApp number : 0819 0541 0000

We bought: 6 Saucijs brood (sausage rolls) and 1 loaf of Dreikorn Brot (seed bread)

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Inside Maison Weiner Bakery and historic photos
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Maison Weiner Bakery and its famous wooden door transported from Germany to this location
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The Maison Weiner Bakery bread selection
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My bread purchase … Dreikorn Brot (seed bread)
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The Maison Weiner famous saucijs brood

Whilst you’re in the Central Jakarta area, be sure to check out some or all of these significant locations:

5 Reasons to visit Jakarta’s historic areas of  Kota Tua and Sunda Kelapa Exploring Jakarta’s Grand Mosque, Masjid Istiqlal and Cathedral  ‘Katedral Katolic’
Visiting Jl Surabaya – Home of Jakarta’s famous Antique and Flea Market
Green Spaces in Jakarta #5 – Taman Proklamasi
Green Spaces in Jakarta  – Taman Suropati

Get adventuring! – There’s plenty to explore on and around Jl. Veteran I 🙂

Keen to continue exploring interesting streets in Jakarta?
Here is the a journey bespoke full street series

Top Spots to Stop on Jl. Benda
Top Spots to Stop on and around Jl. Bumi
Top spots to stop on Jl. Cikajang Raya
Top spots to stop in the Senopati Area
Top spots to stop on Jl. Kemang Timur
Top Spots to Stop on Jl. Cipete Raya, South Jakarta
Top Spots to Stop on Jl. Terogong Raya

At the time of posting, the information gathered on Top Spots to Stop was accurate. Please check websites and contact information before visiting.

*Jalan Jalan – take a walk

Words: Liz McClean and Jo Stevens  Photography: a journey bespoke

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